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Day 10: Susa – Oulx

This morning I opened my eyes and it looked like it was afternoon: heavy clouds and a thin rain reminded me that I am on the mountains and the warmth of the paddy fields is behind me! Despite the urge to roll on my side and go back to sleep, I got up and ready: I must always keep going! It was Suor Bibiana who made me smile with a good breakfast (enough for three people with the celiac disease!) She also found an ultra nonagenarian priest who blessed me: my first blessing!

After breakfast, I left: the rain wasn’t nothing terrible and in half an hour it was off.

The stage today was very beautiful, even if it was very difficult and longer than the guide book said: it was more suitable to the hikers than to the pilgrim with a big backpack: it is necessary to pay close attention to the stretches in the woods, where the path becomes narrow and slyppery, especially in this weather! Anyway, I went through the silent woods of Val di Susa, disturbed only by the works for the TAV and by the highway. I saw waterfalls and lakes and I walked through small villages, half abandoned, but full of charm because they are the witnesses of a time when the mountain still was inhabited.

I saw the Fort of Exilles, where they say that “the Iron Mask” was imprisoned. Today it is the kingdom of many signposts saying “Once upon a time in Exilles”… Once upon a time, there were many activities in this small village that a few decades ago counted more than 3000 souls, but today there are mostly closed shutters. Nevertheless, it’s in Exilles where I met the first people who precisely asked me if I was going to Compostela. And the urge to sing the pilgrims’ song came to me: a song that I learned in Grañón. Maybe, thanks to my magic voice (!), I could witness the escape of two chamois and a lot of squirrels along the Franks’ Path that crosses the Natural Park of the Great Wood of Salbertrand.

Now I’m resting at the Salesians’ in Oulx, together with two more pilgrims: Giancarlo who is walking to Rome,  and Stefano, who will walk with me from tomorrow on.
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Days 7 and 8: Torino – Sant’Ambrogio Torinese

Yesterday, I didn’t really have the energy to write anything: I was destroyed and I prefered to enjoy a bit of relax and of the company of my friends and guests in Turin… I hope you will accept my excuses!

By the way, yesterday morning I left with the best wishes that don Patrice could wish me, without sounding too much skeptical about my chances of avoiding the rain. And, surprisingly, I had a wonderful day: sunny and warm!

Walking in the middle of the fields wet with dew and the rain of last night, I literally drank the first part of the stage, arriving in Chivasso. In front of the cathedral, I got free of my backpack and I waited for Valeria, a pilgrim friend who helped a friend of mine who was having a bad time. After sharing a cappuccino, we started walking together for the first stretch of the way in direction of Turin. We said goodbye after meeting a lady who was “working” on the trail. After something than 2km I met Carlo, another pilgrim friend who came to meet me from San Mauro Torinese. We walked together along the Po and to Gassino and San Mauro. We reached once again the Po, but the stretch of walk that I still needed to do to arrive to my friend’s Barbara home, was still 10km long. With some 30km on my back, even if I didn’t really like the idea of taking a bus, it really sounded like a nonsense to walk 40km today, with the last 10 across Turin.

So, Carlo took me along a nice tour on the bu 61 to Porta Nuova and on the driver-free metro, until we got to Barbara’s home… and we found her walking Margot, her beautiful dog.

For dinner, my husband Alessandro arrived and we all went out for a Piemontese dinner with Barbara, Marco, Manu and her husband Michele… and their beautiful baby, Sofia!

This morning, Alessandro and I went back to the Francigena, walking along Corso Francia and leaving Turin to go to Rivoli, Rosta and the church of Sant’Antonio di Ranverso: a jem well hidden at the beginning of the Val di Susa. The paintings date at the beginning of the XV century and they left us open mouthed. After the visit, we proceeded to Avigliana, where we stopped for a snack.

The kiwi and the banana must have clouded our eyes, because we promptly lost the arrows and we found them only out of the historical center. Being a bit in advance for arriving in Sant’Ambrogio, we also enjoyed a quick lunch at the bar Tritolo, at the dynamite museum of Avigliana.

We’ve walked the last 3km with the company of the Sacra di San Michele, which dominated the landscape from above… now we are waiting for Don Romeo, to move in, drop our backpack and go to visit Saint Michael in his eagle’s nest!

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