Category Archives: Travelogue

On this page I will publish my notes along the Way… If there is a place where it will be possible to follow me, well: this is that place!

Day 16: Savines-le-Lac – Notre Dame du Laus

Today we had a very beautiful but hard walk because of the difficult gradients we had to face. An other quite important element, today, was the weather that, over the last two days,  completely changed: the cold air coming down from the glaciers has been replaced by a warm wind the warms up the grass and dries the air in our throats and the ideas in our brains.

As it’s becoming usual, I’ve been walking with Roberto, while Stefano is still dealing with some physical problems that, we hope, are slowly getting solved.

Leaving Savines-le-Lac behind us was not really a pain, despite the beauty of the place: the reception, yesterday, almost didn’t exist, except for a kind lady who tried in every prossible way to help us find an accomodation, but came up against a wall of rubber…

On the opposite, today, after many uphills and downhills, we arrived at the sanctuary of Notre Dame du Laus. We were tired and sweaty, since we had found some relief only in the cold water a lady gave us, when we passed in front of her house. Here everything is well organized and they gave us an accomodation with half board for 24.50€ each… and we are sleeping exactly over the cell of Bénoite!

Tonight, after a moment of prayer in the church of the sanctuary, we also met our first pilgrim in France: it’s Ignacio, a guy from Argentina who is walking from Santiago to Jerusalem.

This post is a bit of a nonsense, I know, but I’m literally falling asleep…

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Day 15: Embrun – Savines-le-Lac. It should have been an easy one, but…

This morning, we got up fresh and relaxed after spending the night at the Hotel Le Tourisme in Embrun. We had breakfast at the bar, took some pictures of the first bronze shells and said goodbye to Stefano’s boots. We were in a good mood, ready to face a beautiful day and quite a short walk, that would lead us to the Boscodon Abbey. At the exit of the city, we separated: Stefano wanted to wait for the cathedral to open, while Roberto and I, we had already visited it yesterday evening.

So the two of us started walking down from the hill where the centre of Embrun lies and then up in the woods that circle Boscodon. We both recommend you to follow the red and white signs, so that you will not live our experience.

At a certain point, while we were climbing on the side of the hill, we noticed that the GR was cutting the turns of a concrete road, setting quite a ripid trail in the wet wood. Hoping to find an easier path, we started walking on the concrete, checking sometimes our direction with the GPS. At a certain point, we must have misunderstood: the GPS device was showing that we were walking on the wrong side of the hill and the abbey was now in the valley next to the one that we were following. It was not too bad, apparently.  The stage we had planned was short and making a bit longer wasn’t a terrifying idea. So, we asked the GPS navigator to guide us to the abbey and it instantly elaborated a track across the woods. It was clear and easy on the map. But on the ground, it disappeared after 200 meters: instead of walking on an easy trail, we were walking in the high and wet grass and later in the wood, crossing creeks and fences. After 15 minutes, we managed to get to a small dirt road near to some houses: the one we were looking for. We started following it and it looked all right. For 5 minutes.

Then we found a closed gate in front of us and, behind it, we couldn’t see any road. The lady we found in the next farm explained us that we should open the gate, follow the road, follow the creek, get to the bridge, take on the left … et voilà, l’Abbaye!

We showed her that the road was closed and there was no sign on the ground: she replied that “they” – probably the gods of the roads – should come and sign it again. She closed the gate behind us and simply went away.

And this is where our adventure really began. As we had guessed, the road didn’t exist any more: it was covered by the grass and the wood and it was impossible to follow it. Following tracks, probably made by some boar, we went downhill to the famous creek and, after half an hour of trudging and slipping, we crossed a small creek: we could finally see the abbey in front of us… the direction was right! We started climbing the hill in the direction of the houses but, when we got at the end of the climbing, Roberto told me to stop: we couldn’t go further, there was a vertical cliff cut by another creek, that reaches after a few meters the one that we had already crossed. And after reaching it, the water fell down for some 15 meters. We had to get over the cliff, going back to the first creek and reaching the second one’s shores.

After some more trudging and slipping we are on the shores of the second creek. We now had two possibilities: fording the creek throwing some rocks in the water or crossing the chasm, passing on a truss that supported a big tube. Sincerely, I found the truss option terrifying, but the water was flowing too fast and fording would have been really dangerous. And Roberto looked enthusiastic of our strange bridge. So, one foot after the other, we arrived, like two survivors from Vietnam at the feet of the Boscodon Abbey, a place of meditation and prayer.

It’s a pure romanic monument, without frills, and it welcomed us with a comforting silence. After thanking Holy Mary and the Child for guiding us there, safe and sound, we had a light lunch and changed our socks.

After a while, we could start walking again and after a couple of hours, we reached Savines-le-Lac and the lake of Serre-Ponçon. Savines-le-Lac is a recent village, built for the people of several other villages covered by the water of the artificial lake. It is a turistical center, but it doesn’t really welcomes the pilgrims: even the youth hostel closed up some time ago and the pilgrims must rest at the normal hotels with normal prices (that means very high!). Not really thanks to the help of the Tourism Office, we managed to find a room at the Hotel Les Sources and we spent a relaxing evening chatting… Before sleep, just a thought for my friend Eva and her baby Alberto, born in Budapest 3 weeks ago: one of the best things of my coming back home will surely be meeting him!
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Days 13 and 14: L’Argentière-la-Béssée – Guillestre – Embrun

After one day of silence, I need to take a step back: the evening when we slept in L’Argentière, the owner of the gîte (quite a kind of a woman!), told us that yesterday it was the Feast of the Ascension and that all the gîtes would probably be full until monday… This, obviously, didn’t cheer us up, so, quickly enough, we tried to work out where we could sleep in the following nights. Thanks to the employee of the Tourism Office of L’Argentière,  we have a bit forced the priest of Guillestre to host us in a parrish room. So, yesterday, we walked for 22 wonderful km  along the Valley of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, where Roberto was kindly bitten by a dog in a heel, while he was taking a picture of a sundial. Then, we had lunch, trying not to fly away because of the strong wind and, in the afternoon, we reached Guillestre, to meet Stefano and the good priest.

The dinner was a bit difficult: after trying to find a place in 4 restaurants (really, all the restaurants in Guillestre), we had to go to a snack-bar, the only one willing to welcome us. At 20:30 the priest arrived and gave us our mansion: a catechism room with large wooden tables and a small toilet with a kitchen corner. Tonight, we couldn’t have a real shower, so we went to “bed” (or to table) straight after dropping our backpack on the floor, probably like the ancient pilgrims were used to do pretty every night.

This morning I was more tired than yesterday, with my left hip completely rigid, but a warm tea restarted my engine. Stefano spent a little time taking some pictures, while I went on with Roberto, with 2 goals clear in my mind: 1. Solving the accomodation problem for tonight 2. Buying some food.

It’s useless to say that we failed both our goals: none of the gîtes answered the phone and the only grocery store we met, after 20 km, was closed. Anyway, we were prized by the pretrifying source, geological wonders and breathtaking landscapes.

Since now I’m writing from Embrun, from a king-size bed in a 5-places room that we will pay as a triple… we have nothing to complain about!

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Les Vigneaux: the fresco of the vices and virtues

A legend says that monsieur Carle, a very important man from Les Vigneaux, president of the provincial parliament of Grenoble, wanted to leave an indelible mark of his life in the memory of his fellow citizens. He decided to ask a young Italian painter to paint a fresco to decorate the southern facade of the church of Saint-Laurant: since he was firmly convinced of the fidelity of his wife Louise and of his own blamelessness, he picked the theme of the vices and virtues and charged his wife to watch over the works.

The beautiful Louise didn’t turn out exactly insensitive to the beauty of the young Italian and seduced him within a few days. Still not satisfied, an evening when her husband was in Grenoble, he took part in his place to a party at the house of the Lord of Rame. No need to say that, in the absence of her husband and of her lover, the Lord of Rame took care of the lonely woman.

Still not happy, on the next day, Louise went supervising the work of the painter with her new lover, rousing in the heart of the young painter a wild desire of revenge. So the fresco was completed with the portraits of Louise, in the shoes of Lust, monsieur Carle, in the roles of Anger, and the lord of Rame, with the appearance of Pride.

When the husband was back, he say the fresco and understood what had happened. In turn, he meditated revenge. After paying and sending away the painter, he made fast his wife’s mule for several days, and then he invited Louise to go with him to visit a village not far away. As soon as the thirsty mule came near to a creek, Louise lost control of the animal and it drag her into the water, drowning her.

The revenge of the betrayed husband was so consumed, and he got away by having a Mass said for the deceased wife in the church of Saint-Laurant.
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Day 12: Briançon – L’Argentière-la-Béssée

Today, I will be short and I leave you with some pictures. The stage has been very beautiful, short enough to give us some time to rest when we arrived. We’ve been walking for the whole day in the Vallée de la Durance, which is a very imposing river that will flow along our path for several days. The landscape was very beautiful and the Way was quiet and ell signed… Now the mission to find an accomodation for tomorrow! If I can, I will write something more, later, about the dance macabre of Les Vigneaux.

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Day 11: Oulx-Briançon

Today I’m very happy to be here, writing: the walk I’ve faced was the hardest one and maybe the one I was most scared about. And, unexpectedly, was very good and I liked it a lot!

In the morning, I was a bit worried about the weather, but in the end, it was quite good and gave us only a bit of wind. I left Oulx and Giancarlo with Stefano: we han to face the steep climb to the Montgenevre Pass. We started with a smart pace, along the SS24 and leaving it to get to small groups of houses spread on the side of the mountain. Not listening to Giancarlo’s advice – we are two blockheads, but I like the hazard – we faced the Gorges of Saint Gervase, a track that runs parallel to the road, in a rocky gorge where a wild creek flows. At the end of the trail, we had overcome the 800 metres of difference that separate Oulx from the Montgenevre… and we almost had fun!

After this sweaty climb, we crossed the border in Clavière and reached the village of Montgénèvre, where I realized that the first part of this long travel was behind me… it was quite an emotion!

After lunch, a voice called on us: Roberto, who is going to walk with us to Arles, managed to get here hitchhiking and now is ready to start his own walk!

The downhill to Briançon lasted a couple of hours and, after walking through the citadelle, here we are at very kind priest-doctor’s house: he welcomes the pilgrims with an excellent community dinner… We couldn’t fall better than this!

Now, we are ready to deal, from tomorrow on, with the Via Domita!
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Day 10: Susa – Oulx

This morning I opened my eyes and it looked like it was afternoon: heavy clouds and a thin rain reminded me that I am on the mountains and the warmth of the paddy fields is behind me! Despite the urge to roll on my side and go back to sleep, I got up and ready: I must always keep going! It was Suor Bibiana who made me smile with a good breakfast (enough for three people with the celiac disease!) She also found an ultra nonagenarian priest who blessed me: my first blessing!

After breakfast, I left: the rain wasn’t nothing terrible and in half an hour it was off.

The stage today was very beautiful, even if it was very difficult and longer than the guide book said: it was more suitable to the hikers than to the pilgrim with a big backpack: it is necessary to pay close attention to the stretches in the woods, where the path becomes narrow and slyppery, especially in this weather! Anyway, I went through the silent woods of Val di Susa, disturbed only by the works for the TAV and by the highway. I saw waterfalls and lakes and I walked through small villages, half abandoned, but full of charm because they are the witnesses of a time when the mountain still was inhabited.

I saw the Fort of Exilles, where they say that “the Iron Mask” was imprisoned. Today it is the kingdom of many signposts saying “Once upon a time in Exilles”… Once upon a time, there were many activities in this small village that a few decades ago counted more than 3000 souls, but today there are mostly closed shutters. Nevertheless, it’s in Exilles where I met the first people who precisely asked me if I was going to Compostela. And the urge to sing the pilgrims’ song came to me: a song that I learned in Grañón. Maybe, thanks to my magic voice (!), I could witness the escape of two chamois and a lot of squirrels along the Franks’ Path that crosses the Natural Park of the Great Wood of Salbertrand.

Now I’m resting at the Salesians’ in Oulx, together with two more pilgrims: Giancarlo who is walking to Rome,  and Stefano, who will walk with me from tomorrow on.
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Notes about my Way in Italy

These first 10 days of walk in Italy were, on one hand, very beautiful, and on the other one, very difficult. They were very beautiful thanks to all the friends I met for the first time of after a long time we hadn’t seen each other, for the time we shared and for the love I received and I gave. It was wonderful to see how this “strange” experience I am living is arising so much enthusiasm and the curiosity of many people: their support repayed the loneliness and the fatigue. And I also learned new things: for example, do you know that the hikers in Piemonte should thank all those volunteers who go doing ranze runze? This means that they go cleaning and fixing the markings on the trails… Carlo taught me this very nice word! And Accob too does ranze runze on the Via Francigena, even if his tools are a bicycle and the markings he leaves on the trail… that’s true, because the ways don’t get marked by themselves!
On the other side, these first days of walk, that are about the 10% of the total, put me on the test. This surely is a very different experience from the Camino Francés, where the keyword is compartir. A part from the people I wrote about and from my family, I cannot really say that there are many people with whom I could share. A few km from Susa, we asked for information to a boy and he simply told us: “I didn’t really believe that somebody walked the Francigena”. And indeed, during 6 days on the Via Francigena I’ve never shared the bedroom with anybody else than Alessandro, and I met only 5 other pilgrims while I was walking. But, contrary to the current position, the Francigena (at least for what concerns the part I walked) is not very expensive: on 6 stages I had to sleep in a B&B only once, paying only 20€ for a studio flat. All the other nights, the hospitality was granted to the pilgrims on donativo (the Spanish way of saying free offer). By the way, it is also true that people still look at the pilgrim with curiosity, or maybe better: like a “strange” person who wanders among fields that he doesn’t know… as the word “pilgrim” means. In terms of education, awareness, dissemination and promotion, there still is a long way to go, but the heritage that we have is very rich and the way is walked mostly by foreigners who are better aware of this than we are.
A last thing that is very clear to me, after these first ten days is that, for me, getting older means learning to deal with the stress of the separation, from my relative, for whom I’m worried, of course, and from my husband, who I miss in the same way I would miss a harm… In short, my 30th year gave me realization that I can no longer walk with my backpack emptied of the worries about my home, like I did in 2008…

Day 9: Sant’Ambrogio di Torino – Sacra di San Michele – Susa

Today it was a hard one, mainly because of two reasons. The first one was the necessity of arriving in Susa by 4 p.m., so that Alessandro could catch the train to Turin. The second was the constant presence since morning of big and nasty dark clouds over the northern mountains. Naturally, we can also add the fact that we don’t like easy things, so, since we didn’t manage to go to visit the Sacra di San Michele yesterday in the afternoon, we decided to do it today! So, we added more or less 4km with an average gradient of 18% to a stage that was already 29km long. But we did it: 33km in 7 hours and something, with the ascent and descent to the Sacra for breakfast… In the worst tradition of speedy walkers, but that’s it!
I’ve been walking for the whole day with my heart torn apart: Alessandro already takes on a hard charge for reaching me around on the Way and, if he had missed the train at 4 p.m. he would have arrived at home after midnight, and tomorrow he will have to leave at the sunrise, also having his luggage to prepare… But, on the other hand, I didn’t want to let him go: now, we will have to wait for a long time before we can see each other again. Getting older I’m also softening, I know, but I’m already missing him so much!
Anyway, a part from these considerations that are merely personal, the stage is very beautiful, the Way winds its way between the left and right side of the valley.The Sacra di San Michele is wonderful (we will have to go back there: when we arrived there it was still closed!) and it’s worth climbing there! Unluckily, today we couldn’t really enjoy the scenery because of the weather…
Now I’m writing from the harmchair in my single room at the Sisters of San Giuseppe, here in Susa: for the room and for her caring affection, I really must thank Suor Bibana, who takes care of the pilgrims!

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Days 7 and 8: Torino – Sant’Ambrogio Torinese

Yesterday, I didn’t really have the energy to write anything: I was destroyed and I prefered to enjoy a bit of relax and of the company of my friends and guests in Turin… I hope you will accept my excuses!

By the way, yesterday morning I left with the best wishes that don Patrice could wish me, without sounding too much skeptical about my chances of avoiding the rain. And, surprisingly, I had a wonderful day: sunny and warm!

Walking in the middle of the fields wet with dew and the rain of last night, I literally drank the first part of the stage, arriving in Chivasso. In front of the cathedral, I got free of my backpack and I waited for Valeria, a pilgrim friend who helped a friend of mine who was having a bad time. After sharing a cappuccino, we started walking together for the first stretch of the way in direction of Turin. We said goodbye after meeting a lady who was “working” on the trail. After something than 2km I met Carlo, another pilgrim friend who came to meet me from San Mauro Torinese. We walked together along the Po and to Gassino and San Mauro. We reached once again the Po, but the stretch of walk that I still needed to do to arrive to my friend’s Barbara home, was still 10km long. With some 30km on my back, even if I didn’t really like the idea of taking a bus, it really sounded like a nonsense to walk 40km today, with the last 10 across Turin.

So, Carlo took me along a nice tour on the bu 61 to Porta Nuova and on the driver-free metro, until we got to Barbara’s home… and we found her walking Margot, her beautiful dog.

For dinner, my husband Alessandro arrived and we all went out for a Piemontese dinner with Barbara, Marco, Manu and her husband Michele… and their beautiful baby, Sofia!

This morning, Alessandro and I went back to the Francigena, walking along Corso Francia and leaving Turin to go to Rivoli, Rosta and the church of Sant’Antonio di Ranverso: a jem well hidden at the beginning of the Val di Susa. The paintings date at the beginning of the XV century and they left us open mouthed. After the visit, we proceeded to Avigliana, where we stopped for a snack.

The kiwi and the banana must have clouded our eyes, because we promptly lost the arrows and we found them only out of the historical center. Being a bit in advance for arriving in Sant’Ambrogio, we also enjoyed a quick lunch at the bar Tritolo, at the dynamite museum of Avigliana.

We’ve walked the last 3km with the company of the Sacra di San Michele, which dominated the landscape from above… now we are waiting for Don Romeo, to move in, drop our backpack and go to visit Saint Michael in his eagle’s nest!

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