Day 2: Pavia – Ferrera Erbognone

If we could judge a Camino from the beauty of the people we meet along the way, so this Camino is already wonderful! Yesterday I was hosted by Guerrino, Irene and the exceptional Marina, a simple family, who made me feel at home, among friends for life… and I don’t really have enough words to adequately express my gratefulness: you shall know that I bring you along with me in my heart!

On the contrary, today, I noticed for the first time the curious and a bit dazed glances of those crossing my way: some of them said hi, some other asked where I was going and some other asked me to pray for them in Lourdes and in Santiago. Mrs. Giacomina asked me to hug the Apostle in her place. And now I am guest of another special family of future pilgrims, but I will write something more about them tomorrow…

Regarding the stage, so far I have walked for 90% of the time on asphalt and has not been a light walk, but the Monte Rosa on my right, more and more well-defined, the paddy fields all around, te first wood and a very nice sandy trail (you cannot understand how it feels good to walk on compact but soft sand, if you haven’t walked for two days on the concrete!) and the lunch with my aunt and uncle made me walk for 30 km today too! In conclusion, I’m ready for a nice dinner prepared by an exceptional cook!

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Day 1: from Milan to Pavia

This morning, at the end, the great adventure began: walking from Milan to Finisterre! Like all the great travels, it started with the first step, in front of the Basilic of Sant’Ambrogio. The beautiful surprise was that I arrived there together with my mum, my first Camino mate, and we found there some other friends: Patrizia and Lino, who contacted me in the latest weeks and I finally met in person! Later Valeria – who will be spiritually by my side -, Luigi – who will soon have his own part of adventure – and Stefano arrived. After some pictures and the last hugs, Stefano and I left in direction of Pavia.

Today, the first 35 km flew away, while we were chatting and we were also joined by Luca who was riding his bike. The weather was nice and the legs worked well… So, some time past 17, we were already facing the covered bridge in Pavia with a red fruits granita in our hands! This first day was one of those that worried me most… so, I am very satisfied! Now, after a quite dinner with a very kind family who host pilgrims in Borgo Ticino, I can sleep and rest waiting for tomorrow!

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Useful bibliography

Once that I’ve chosen the route I wanted to follow, I immediately started looking for the necessary information and some bibliography. Obviously, it won’t be possible to follow a single guide, but to join different sources: it will be a long job… But let’s see, for the benefit of those who want to follow the same path in the future. Some of the sources I’ve found can be found in a library and some of them on the Internet.

Of course, we must consider that the Internet is continually updated, and sometimes you can also read the date of the last update: the information can be very precise. In the meanwhile, the paper guide are updated  to the day of the publication. So, it is better that the pilgrim is well attentive to the reliability of the various sources he’s consulting.

guide

Section 1: from Milan to Montgenevre along the Via Francigena

Starting from Milan towards Pavia, you can follow the path that connects these two cities, running along the Naviglio Pavese. From Pavia on, you can follow the Via Francigena backwards, towards the Montgenevre. For information about the route I bought the “Guida alla Via Francigena” edited by Monica d’Atti and Franco Cinti for Terre di Mezzo (4th edition, April 2012). Updates on accommodation offered to the pilgrims  are constantly made available by the authors at the link http://www.confraternitadisanjacopo.it/Francigena/guida/newsospitalita.htm and I recommend to consult this page before leaving.

However, on the Internet you can find several useful things: first, in the Italian section of the website www.camminando.eu, you can find the updated guides of some Italian routes, among which there is the Via Francigena: Flavio Vandoni, walker and hospitalero, is also happy to provide news and suggestions.

Another useful source is the www.viefrancigene.it website: you can download the list of pilgrim accommodation. Unfortunately, this useful list will guide us only to Vercelli, where the “official” Via Francigena goes up to the Great St. Bernard, but we need to go westward to the Montgenevre.

The Associazione Movimento Lento has also created a group, at this link, inside the Couchsurfing website where pilgrims can ask for hospitality to other members of the community.

Section 2: from the Montgenevre to Arles along the Via Domitia

This section, which long less than 500 km, is the first route that I will walk in French land: it’s an itinerary with a great history and I’m very happy of walking it.

To learn something more, I purchased (on Amazon) the guide “La Via Domitia vers Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle ou vers Rome” by Jean-Yves Grégoire, published by Rando éditions. It is a small and light book, equipped with maps, route descriptions, historical notes and cultural information on the places to visit. It seems very good, but I will verify it on the ground. The guide does not slavishly follow the GR653D, which is the hiking trail that connects the Montgenevre to Arles: it leaves the trail here and there to meet the cultural (and physical) needs of the pilgrim, who is not always a professional hiker, and tries to trace as far as possible the old Roman route.

If you want to rely on the GR653D all the way, you can buy its Topoguide, published by FFRandonnée. Currently, there are no Italian guides for this route, but you can find some alternative in English.

Here again, the site www.camminando.eu comes to rescue the pilgrim, making available for free download the guides written by Flavio Vandoni, updated annually, reporting maps, a description of the route and the indication of the accommodation for pilgrims.

In France there are some very active and helpful Associations of Friends of the Camino or Friend of St. James: on their websites they often provide the pilgrims with guides and lists of accommodation, which are very useful to those who decide to travel along these routes. This also applies to the Via Domitia. You can find useful information for the whole stretch from Montgenevre to Arles here:  http://www.compostelle-paca-corse.info/. In the section “Hébergements”, you can download the list of pilgrim accommodation and of the responsible of the single regions. The site shows the date of the update of the published information.

Section 3: From Arles to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

For this stretch of way, I will follow the Voie du Piémont Pyrénéen. Who wish to follow the Via Tolosana, they can refer to the guide “Miam Miam Dodo Saint Jacques de Compostelle, La Voie d’Arles/Camino Aragonés GR653” by Mireille Retail, published by Les Éditions du Vieux Crayon. taking care to look for some information on the historical and cultural places to visit, since the Miam Miam Dodo are great for the itinerary and the accommodation, but don’t cover the cultural aspects. Currently, there are no guides in Italian for this route.

For what is about the Voie du Piémont Pyrénéen, waiting for the guide of this Camino that is going to be published by Rando Édition, I got all the information I wanted on the Internet. The first reference is, once again, the website www.camminando.euThere, you can find some different guides: one for the route from Arles to Lourdes and than all the choices you can make to rejoin the Camino Francés on the Pyrenees (the Somport Pass along the Camino Aragonés, the Cize Pass to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Camino of the Baztan). Thanks to this source, we will also be able to go from Arles to Carcassonne (the only section where there is no really consolidated route).

In this case too, the Associations of the Friends of the Camino are precious: the site we need is  http://vppyr.free.fr/vpp.phpIn the section Partir>Les étapes, you will find a description stage per stage of the route from Narbonne to Roncesvalles. A list of the accommodation is available from the section Partir>Documents. Among the documents, you can also find a carnet du pèlerin  with the maps and simplest and most useful information.

Section 4: from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela, along the Camino Francés and to Fisterra, along the Camino Fisterrano

From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port starts the “classic” route of the Camino Francés to Santiago de Compostela, you probably will already know it, but you never know… so… just in case: you will find a lot of guide books to this route in all the libraries around the world and you will need them just to know that you have a guide in your backpack and what you want to visit at the end of the daily walk.  It’s impossible to get lost on the French Way (you need to follow the yellow arrows and the blue and yellow shells!). Besides, when you will arrive in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, at the accueil pèlerins, they will provide you the most useful things: a complete list of the albergues with the distances from one to the next one and the elevation profile of the whole Camino.

If you really want to have a paper guide and you are Italian, you can download it in PDF from the site of the PellegriniBelluno. If you are English native speakers, you can download this version always in PDF (it is made available by Greg, a pilgrim like you and me, who committed himself to the translation of the original Spanish guide by Eroski, that you can find here).

Prologue: from Home to the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio in Milan

It is true that we live in Segrate only since 2012 and I do not really feel to be “from Segrate”, but I always say that I’m from Milan. It is true that I was born 500 metres from the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio and that I’ve always been bound to my diocese, which is particular, autonomist, innovative and often frowned upon… In short, the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, where the Archbishop who did not hesitate to scold the emperors rests, was the natural place from which to start my walk.

But… but… now I live here… and so? So, today I’ve walked from my home to the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio with Alessandro, my husband. It’s only a short prologue of 12 km and something more, but it was important. We went out of the door and we started walking on our Way. It was good and right to start it together, in the same way we will finish it, together, on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean…

What did we see?

The Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio was built by Bishop Ambrogio from 379 to 386 AD: the Bishop wanted to dedicate it to the martyrs who suffered persecutions under the Romans and took the name of Basilica Martyrum. Only after the Bishop’s death, when his remains were buried under the main altar along with the remains of the Martyrs Gervaso and Protaso, the church was rededicated in his honor. The Basilica was rebuilt at the end of the XI century, according to the canons of the Romanesque, and the works were wanted by Bishop Anselmo, another great bishop of Milan. The new building maintained three naves and three apses, and didn’t have a transept.

The altar of Sant’Ambrogio is particularly ramarkable: it is a Carolingian masterpiece made in gold, silver gilt, enamels and precious stones. It lies just above the relics of the saints, placed under the altar itself and visible through a window on the back side. The altar was made by the Masters of the Stories of Christ (who decorated the front side), and the Master Vuolvinio (who decoradet the back side), between 824 and 859. The Basilica is, today, an isolated case of the Lombard Romanesque style, as other contemporary examples (such as the Cathedrals of Pavia, Novara and Vercelli are now destroyed or have undergone major transformations.

A curiosity: on a granite column, presumably Roman, inside the Basilica, stands Moses’ Snake, who escaped the inconoclastic wrath of King Hezekiah. It is a bronze sculpture (in the past it was believed to be the Moses’ original one) donated by the Emperor Basil II in 1007. Prayers are directed to the snake to ward off certain types of ailments and it is said that the end of the world will be announced by its descent from this column.

Camminando.eu website

On this page, devoted to the activities animated by some friends of mine, I’d like to give a speciale space to the Association of the Friends of the Cammino di Santu Jacu website: www.camminando.eu.

camminando

I recommend you to visit it, firstly because it is the only place where you can find the updated and official information about the Cammino di Santu Jacu in Sardinia. As some of you may know, I’ve been working on that project for some years now and I had the luck of walking a part of it last November. The video of that wonderful week is at the end of this article.

But the Cammino di Santu Jacu is not the only interesting thing you will find on that website: there also are constantly updated information related also to other routes in Italy, France, Spain and Portugal, together with lists of albergues, instructions to get to start points of many Caminos, and so on… It’s a real gold mine for pilgrims!

What should I put in my backpack?

The backpack is the balance between our fears and our desire for freedom… That point usually moves towards the freedom, as long as te backpack rests on our shoulders: and the backpack gets empty.

Personally, my opinion is that what is needed for a week’s walk is neither more nor less than what we need for a month: the essentials.

It is therefore necessary to think that you will spend a long period of time in which everything that you need is to be transported on your shoulders, therefore, all the unnecessary should stay at home! Here is a list of the essentials for those who start walking in spring and summer.  I recommend to  avoid the temptation of adding too many things to this list: remember that the ideal weight should be less than 10% of your body weight!

  • 1 backpack, 40-45 liters , light, should distribute the weight on your hips and possibly be equipped with side pockets for water
  • 1 shell, symbol of the pilgrim
  • 3 short-sleeved shirts (or 2 short-sleeved and 1 long sleeve ) for them as well as everything else, you shall prefer the technical materials, which dry as quickly as possible because the laundry is done at the end of the daily walk and must be dried in the morning before leaving
  • 1 or 2 pairs of shorts
  • 1 pair of throusers (if you find those trekking throusers with the removable lower part of the leg, you can also leave at home the second pair of shorts )
  • 1 fleece or microfleece depending on the season and the regions you want to cross
  • 1 poncho that covers your backpack
  • 3 pairs of technical socks reinforced toes and heels ( not the sponge !)
  • 3 pairs of pants
  • 2 pairs of bras ( for ladies )
  • 1 pair of slippers for the shower
  • 1 pair of hiking shoes for the mountains: there are many solutions on the market; I prefer lightness and protection for my foot. If you start in the spring and summer, in my opinion, you can leave at home the Gore-Tex and prefer breathable materials that dry quickly
  • 1 lightweight sleeping bag (you will hardly sleep outdoors , unless you wish, but the sleeping bag will help protect you from what might be hiding in the mattress ) or 1 sheet sleeping bag
  • 1 mat: if you plan to leave in the summer, sometimes albergues will be crowded enough to force a solution on the floor and a night under the stars could also be an experience you might want to try
  • 1 torch front for departures before sunrise and in the evening so as not to disturb if you want to read before sleeping
  • Marseille soap (both for clothes, shower and hair), wire for hanging (3-4 meters ) and a few safety pins for the laundry
  • the necessary – just enough! – for the toilette (mind the weight: if you set off in 2 or 3, share shower gel and toothpaste! ) In which I include ear plugs , needle, cotton thread, scissors and betadine to treat blisters, arnica cream, ointment feet , electric epilator (or shaving kit but only if you can not help it)
  • 1 shower towel, microfiber , lightweight and compressible
  • a pilgrim’s guide of the Way (bought or packaged by you with the information found on the internet, but do not leave at home information on historical and cultural heritage which you shall not fail to admire! )
  • 1 wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses, and sunscreen
  • 1 bottle or 2 lightweight plastic bottles of 0.5 l .
  • pen and notebook for travel notes
  • a case to be kept with them containing identity card, pilgrim’s credential, money, credit cards / debit cards, health cards
  • camera.

Not really essential but still important for someone: cell phone, mp3 player eventually, walking stick or telescopic poles, a pair of hiking sandals for resting time and sometimes even to walk, a handkerchief of cotton or other fabric.

This time I’ll leave in a still fresh period, then I will add it to this list a long sleeve technical shirt and a lightweight waterproof and windproof Gore-Tex jacket.

NB: In case of rain, despite the cloak covering the backpack, it could happen that the clean clothes will get wet, making the pilgrim  feel uncomfortable. To prevent this, it is advisable to close the various clothes into transparent plastic bags (those for garments, which are also less noisy when handled). The same trick is also to be taken to store battery chargers and other electrical items as well as money and documents.

The pilgrimage is not a goal but a mean

“The pilgrimage itself is not a goal but a mean: undoubtedly the best and the most anciently known to get free from all ties that enchain us to our own convenience, our laziness, our habits, ultimately to ourselves.
Walking is good because it makes us tired, because it purifies us: the bag weights, the shoes and the cobblestones of the road bruise your feet, the sun beats down hard, thirst or hunger will afflict the soul held captive in the body too well cared for, and it gradually takes flight”

From Henri Engelmann, Pèlerinages

Stages and accomodation from Milan to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

I finally managed to order alle the documentation I’ve collected in the last weeks and so, I made the first Excel sheet where I recap the itinerary that I mean to follow. I mean, since when you are on the Way, you never know what will happen… luckily! Anyway, this document outlines the stages, the foreseen date, total and partial km, difficulty level and the accomodation where I hope to sleep, with its characteristics.

If you cannot visualize the spreadsheet, you can download the PDF version of the document frome this link.

If you need some more information or wish to contact me, can write to sara.pellegrina@gmail.com.

 

 

Mortara: hence passed Charlemagne

One of the first places that I will cross during my walk, will be Mortara, a town near Pavia, along the Via Francigena. Mortara history is rooted in the centuries, so much that the existence of the town is already confirmed in the IV century AD, when Gaudenzio, Novara bishop, wanted to build two chapels at its entrance: one was sacred to Saint Peter and the other to Saint Eusebius. The latter started working as a parish for Mortara. Both chapels were built at about 1,5 km from the town and soon became an important stop for those on their way to Rome, or back home to northern and western Europe. Many important people passed from here: in 440 the future pope Leo, in 494 Saint Epifanio, in 574 pope Stephen II, in 575 pope Paul I, and, in the spring of 773, the Frank Ambassy coming back from the meeting with pope Adrian I.

The church of Saint Albino in Mortara

 

Not long after the passage of this group, the church of St. Eusebius finally came in History: on October 12, 773, in fact, just near the two chapels of St. Peter and St. Eusebius,  took place the final battle between the Franks led by Charlemagne and the Lombards guided by their king Desiderius. The battle was extremely bloody and both sides suffered heavy losses, but the Franks triumphed over the Lombards. Despite the victory, however, two of the Paladins of King Charles lost their lives: Amelius d’Auvergne, the king’s cupbearer, and Amicus Beyre, the royal treasurer.

Charlemagne ordered that they should be buried with all the honors, each under the altar of one of the two chapels: Amicus under St. Peter and Amelius under St. Eusebius. The next day, however, the remains of Amicus and Amelius were found both under the altar of the chapel of St. Eusebius, one beside the other. And so, the church of St. Eusebius passed into legend.

Charlemagne and his Paladins: miniature on parchment (XV century), National Library, Turin.

Afther these miraculous events, father Albinus, monk and adviser of Charlemagne, expressed his desire to found a monastery to be aggregated to the church of St. Eusebius, and the king gave it rich donations. The guesthouse of St. Eusebius was well adapted to accomodate the students of Albinus who settled here and took their vows when he became bishop of Vercelli. At his death, in 801, Albinus asked to be buried next to the two Paladins. The monks, all of Frankish origin, dedicated their monastery to Saint Albinus from Angers and adopted the rule of St. Augustine, while enjoying extensive autonomy. St. Albinus, from that moment until today, always remained a popular stop for pilgrims.

 

In the spring of 1999, two sarcophagi were discovered just below the altar of the church of St. Albinus, during the works for its restauration. One of them, as well as being consistent with the dating to the Carolingian period, contained the remains of a man of great prestige, buried with his legs crossed, according to custom adopted by the ecclesiastics of high rank and, later, by the knights of the Temple. Even today, the walls of the apse of the Romanesque church of St. Albinus, bear the engravings left by many pilgrims who found refuge here.

 

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