Tag Archives: Oulx

Day 11: Oulx-Briançon

Today I’m very happy to be here, writing: the walk I’ve faced was the hardest one and maybe the one I was most scared about. And, unexpectedly, was very good and I liked it a lot!

In the morning, I was a bit worried about the weather, but in the end, it was quite good and gave us only a bit of wind. I left Oulx and Giancarlo with Stefano: we han to face the steep climb to the Montgenevre Pass. We started with a smart pace, along the SS24 and leaving it to get to small groups of houses spread on the side of the mountain. Not listening to Giancarlo’s advice – we are two blockheads, but I like the hazard – we faced the Gorges of Saint Gervase, a track that runs parallel to the road, in a rocky gorge where a wild creek flows. At the end of the trail, we had overcome the 800 metres of difference that separate Oulx from the Montgenevre… and we almost had fun!

After this sweaty climb, we crossed the border in Clavière and reached the village of Montgénèvre, where I realized that the first part of this long travel was behind me… it was quite an emotion!

After lunch, a voice called on us: Roberto, who is going to walk with us to Arles, managed to get here hitchhiking and now is ready to start his own walk!

The downhill to Briançon lasted a couple of hours and, after walking through the citadelle, here we are at very kind priest-doctor’s house: he welcomes the pilgrims with an excellent community dinner… We couldn’t fall better than this!

Now, we are ready to deal, from tomorrow on, with the Via Domita!
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Day 10: Susa – Oulx

This morning I opened my eyes and it looked like it was afternoon: heavy clouds and a thin rain reminded me that I am on the mountains and the warmth of the paddy fields is behind me! Despite the urge to roll on my side and go back to sleep, I got up and ready: I must always keep going! It was Suor Bibiana who made me smile with a good breakfast (enough for three people with the celiac disease!) She also found an ultra nonagenarian priest who blessed me: my first blessing!

After breakfast, I left: the rain wasn’t nothing terrible and in half an hour it was off.

The stage today was very beautiful, even if it was very difficult and longer than the guide book said: it was more suitable to the hikers than to the pilgrim with a big backpack: it is necessary to pay close attention to the stretches in the woods, where the path becomes narrow and slyppery, especially in this weather! Anyway, I went through the silent woods of Val di Susa, disturbed only by the works for the TAV and by the highway. I saw waterfalls and lakes and I walked through small villages, half abandoned, but full of charm because they are the witnesses of a time when the mountain still was inhabited.

I saw the Fort of Exilles, where they say that “the Iron Mask” was imprisoned. Today it is the kingdom of many signposts saying “Once upon a time in Exilles”… Once upon a time, there were many activities in this small village that a few decades ago counted more than 3000 souls, but today there are mostly closed shutters. Nevertheless, it’s in Exilles where I met the first people who precisely asked me if I was going to Compostela. And the urge to sing the pilgrims’ song came to me: a song that I learned in Grañón. Maybe, thanks to my magic voice (!), I could witness the escape of two chamois and a lot of squirrels along the Franks’ Path that crosses the Natural Park of the Great Wood of Salbertrand.

Now I’m resting at the Salesians’ in Oulx, together with two more pilgrims: Giancarlo who is walking to Rome,  and Stefano, who will walk with me from tomorrow on.
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