Torrazza Piemonte | 100 Days on the Way

Today it was a hard one, mainly because of two reasons. The first one was the necessity of arriving in Susa by 4 p.m., so that Alessandro could catch the train to Turin. The second was the constant presence since morning of big and nasty dark clouds over the northern mountains. Naturally, we can also add the fact that we don’t like easy things, so, since we didn’t manage to go to visit the Sacra di San Michele yesterday in the afternoon, we decided to do it today! So, we added more or less 4km with an average gradient of 18% to a stage that was already 29km long. But we did it: 33km in 7 hours and something, with the ascent and descent to the Sacra for breakfast… In the worst tradition of speedy walkers, but that’s it!
I’ve been walking for the whole day with my heart torn apart: Alessandro already takes on a hard charge for reaching me around on the Way and, if he had missed the train at 4 p.m. he would have arrived at home after midnight, and tomorrow he will have to leave at the sunrise, also having his luggage to prepare… But, on the other hand, I didn’t want to let him go: now, we will have to wait for a long time before we can see each other again. Getting older I’m also softening, I know, but I’m already missing him so much!
Anyway, a part from these considerations that are merely personal, the stage is very beautiful, the Way winds its way between the left and right side of the valley.The Sacra di San Michele is wonderful (we will have to go back there: when we arrived there it was still closed!) and it’s worth climbing there! Unluckily, today we couldn’t really enjoy the scenery because of the weather…
Now I’m writing from the harmchair in my single room at the Sisters of San Giuseppe, here in Susa: for the room and for her caring affection, I really must thank Suor Bibana, who takes care of the pilgrims!

Today, again, my walk ended, with my great surprise, by lunch time. Now I’m writing in the paradoxical, but comfortable and welcoming, room that don Patrizio prepared for the pilgrims, among of the typical formica cabinets and mirrors that you can find in all the sacristies, beds and folding camp beds, baskets of paper chains survived from the village fete, paintings to be auctioned, and so on… Don Patrizio, a priest from Rwanda, has been welcoming here the pilgrims who go to Rome and to Santiago from 15 years and provides them with part of his own house, with a bathroom with a large corner shower! On the other hand, they sent him to work in a parish entitled to Saint James… what else could he do?

Today the walk was pretty relaxing and it helped me recover from the bad experience I lived yesterday, walking along the busy provincial road: today, I mainly walked on dirt trails, along and across artifical channels (among which the Cavour Channel, that looks more like a river because of its width) and crossing a fields of rice, wheat and corn… it was so rich to remind me the fields of the Old Maggot, in Tolkien’s Shire! But I can swear that I didn’t steal any carrot!

From Castell’apertole I walked, in something less than a couple of hours, to Lamporo: a nice village grown along a channel, with three churches – one of them entitled to Saint Rocco, another one is build across the channel and the third one faces it -. Then, I walked on through the fields, following the accurate and poetic signs, where I could read quotes, blessings and poems, and I found myself in Saluggia, at about 11:30. For all I knew, the stage would have to be still rather long and in the town I found the market open and crowded. So, I bought something for lunch and I sat eating on the benches with the elders of the village.

“Are you a pilgrim?” “Yes” “Where are you coming from?” “From Castell’apertole” “And where are you going?” “Today I’m going to Torrazza Piemonte” “So you have a short way to go: it’s only 5km” “Have I?! I was under the impression that I still had twice that distance!” “No, no… But you are young, you’ll do it!” …I can also be young, but the stretch I need to walk is the same…

After lunch, I put my backpack on my shoulders and I started looking for the signs of the Via Francigena that, naturally, doesn’t pass through the center of Saluggia, theoretically condemning the pilgrim to avoid benches, fountains and shops where he could buy something to eat. I cannot find the signs. I walnder for a while, until some people tell me that to go to Torrazza there is only the provincial road: “There was also the descent of the stones, but after a while it is interrupted… well, but you are young…”. Finally I find two old ladies: one of them tells me that, sometimes, some people with the backpacks pass walking under her house. Her friend gives me some directions and I found arrows and yellow pilgrims: I can start walking again! Here there is the descent of the stones: it’s a small downhill, paved with small coloured stones, then the road turns, following the railroad… and ending in the bush! Those who plan to walk this part of the Via Francigena are warned: it’s clear that they don’t often pass to clean the trail, so the bushes are taking back the terrain… It’s better to wear long trousers or, if you prefer, to follow the provincial road, since it cannot be longer than 2km!

When I came out of the bushes I still had less than 30 minutes and I arrived in Torrazza Piemonte… and so, I arrived early again: better, since a storm started, my legs are going to relax before the Val di Susa! But I am young, where is the problem?!